Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula is renowned for its incredible biodiversity, and in particular, for the hundreds of whale sharks that aggregate there each summer. It is also home to a lesser known, but no less spectacular phenomenon — an annual sardine run that attracts incredible numbers of Atlantic sailfish. Each winter in February and March, shoals of tropical sardines gather by the billions around the tip of the peninsula, providing a glut of food for opportunistic pelagic predators. Although the sailfish are undoubtedly the main attraction of this natural spectacle, visitors can also expect to see sharks, mantas, marlin and schooling golden rays. Shoaling together in great bait balls, the sardines make easy pickings, and predators come from far and wide to take advantage of the sudden bounty. There are two jumping-off points for divers wanting a front-row seat to the action: Cancun, on the Mexican mainland, or Isla Mujeres, located just a short ferry-ride offshore. The feeding grounds themselves are located in deep blue water, where the visibility can reach up to 82 feet (25 meters), making this the perfect destination for underwater photographers and videographers.
To locate the bait balls, boat skippers keep an eye on the sky, where circling frigate birds act as an indicator for any action taking place below. Once found, there is no telling how long the bait ball will last. Sometimes the feeding frenzy goes on for hours, while at other times, the ocean can transform from complete chaos to eerie emptiness in a matter of minutes. Sailfish are lethally efficient hunters, and sometimes all that remains of a bait ball is a lazy fall of shimmering scales, disappearing like snowflakes into the blue depths. Chasing bait balls requires a certain level of stamina — this dynamic environment is constantly on the move, and you’ll need to be fit to keep up, although perhaps not with the 68 mph bursts of speed that the sailfish themselves are capable of. Because the majority of the action takes place on the surface, scuba equipment is not required; a mask, snorkel and fins are all the tools you’ll need to see this breathtaking phenomenon.
Reaching lengths of up to 10 feet (3 meters), Atlantic sailfish are evolutionary masterpieces. Equipped with razor-sharp bills, they use these weapons not to spear their prey but to slash at the fish as they erupt like a bullet from a gun through the panicked sardine shoals. The great dorsal sails from which they get their name also contribute to the sailfish’s extraordinary hunting technique, and those that swim alongside them will be able to watch as they flatten or unfurl them accordingly. Where the majority of game fish are like silvered mercury in the water, sailfish are a riot of vivid color, from their metallic blue bodies banded with bronze, to their sails that ripple with all the hues of the rainbow. When combined with the bright, ambient light that filters from the sea’s surface, this wealth of color makes for a truly unforgettable spectacle. At any given bait ball, you may find anywhere between five to 50 sailfish, as well as any other predators that turn up to the feast. As the only place in the world where sailfish can be encountered on a reliable basis, this annual event is as unique as it is remarkable.
While seeing sailfish in action may be the primary reason you travel to the Yucatan, it’s well worth incorporating extra time into your itinerary to explore the other diving highlights of the region, including the bull sharks of Playa del Carmen and the subterranean caverns of the Mexican cenotes. That way, you’ll see first-hand how the peninsula gained its international reputation for scuba diving excellence.
