Arriving in Key Largo was a delicious assault on the senses, from that first slice of obligatory key lime pie to the evenings spent watching the sunset over placid waterways, all the while watching for passing manatees. Pelicans cut comic silhouettes perched on our dive boat’s bow at dawn, and the scent of frangipani and hibiscus laced the heavy midday heat. Diving in the Keys is also pretty special, and remarkably hassle-free. There’s no need for hectic surf launches, thanks to canals that open directly onto a mirror-calm sea, and no need for endless layers of neoprene, thanks to the perennially warm water. Visibility in the Keys is also typically good, and plentiful dive centers mean that you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to all your diving needs. We dove with Sea Dwellers Dive Center, a fully equipped PADI 5-Star Dive Center and Resort located in the very heart of the self-professed “dive capital of the world.”
The Florida Keys has a long history as an outpost for traders sailing between the Caribbean and North America, as well as for the activities of the many pirates that once used the islands as a base. Now, the Keys are a major dive destination, and the wrecks of those long-ago ships have become popular dive sites. The underwater landscape of the Keys is impressive in its own right, too, offering a colorful world of coral reefs and a healthy profusion of tropical fish life. The good condition of the Keys’ reefs is surprising considering their sheer volume of visitors each year, and that’s thanks in large part to the visionary conservation efforts that have been in place for more than four decades. Key Largo is the home of some of the earliest marine-protected areas; covering an area adjacent to the Key Largo National Marine Sanctuary, the John Pennekamp Coral Reef State Park became the United States’ first marine-protected area in 1963. One of my favorite dives on Key Largo was Spanish Anchor on Molasses Reef, which combines the area’s historical and natural wonders.
Molasses Reef is the jewel in Key Largo’s crown, both for its proximity to the Gulf Stream, which brings with it some of the best visibility in the area, and for the balance of resident reef fish and passing pelagics that can be seen on any of its dive sites. According to legend, the reef got its name after a ship carrying a cargo of molasses ran aground there several decades ago. Legend also plays a big part in the history of this reef’s most popular dive site, the Spanish Anchor. Here, divers can plainly see a large, coral-encrusted anchor, measuring 10 feet in length and providing an excellent photo opportunity for those with a camera. The story goes that the anchor was used to pull a stricken vessel off the reef after it lost its winch, but in reality very little is known about its provenance. Due to its form, consisting of a classic arrow shape, a long shank and a wooden stock, the anchor is thought to come from the 17th or 18th century; that it is Spanish is really just conjecture based on the frequent use of local trade routes by Spanish ships at that time.
What is certain about the anchor is its beauty today, dressed as it is in gorgonians and soft-sponge coral, and attended by an entourage of shimmering fish. The anchor lies in one of the most pristine sections of Molasses Reef, and in addition to passing pelagics, divers will likely encounter a bevy of resident creatures including turtles, nurse sharks and southern stingrays.
Best of all, with an average depth of only 25 feet (8 meters), this dive site is accessible to divers of all experience and qualification levels. It’s a wonderful place to start your exploration of the Florida Keys’ marine ecosystem, and the perfect showcase of why these islands are so enamored by divers all over the world.
